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On the hill of Ueno, Edo's rulers built a copy of Kyoto: a temple on a wooden stage, a pond made to stand for Lake Biwa, an island goddess. In 1868 a battle burned most of it, and the hill became one of Japan's first public parks.
Start at Saigo's statue beside the grave of the defeated, see Kiyomizu Kannon-do and its moon pine, a Great Buddha that is only a face and Tosho-gu's golden shrine behind its rows of lanterns. Stand where the temple's main hall burned, before the Tokyo National Museum.
Then cross into Yanaka, the temple town that came through: a 1910 sake shop, a bathhouse turned gallery, the cemetery's cherry avenue, the empty footing of a pagoda, Edo's lottery temple and a gate with bullet holes, ending on the Yuyake Dandan steps above Yanaka Ginza.
Eleven stops, about 2.5 km and 90 minutes, at your own pace, in English. Museum and shrine entry not included.
Free cancellation up to 24 hours before the experience starts.